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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.